1. Decide which orifice you will need to use based on which type of gas you will be using for the smokehouse.
nbsp Larger diameter holed Orifice is for natural gas, smaller diameter holed Orifice is for liquid propane.
2. Apply Teflon tape, which is provided for all gases or pipe joint compound to the threaded end of the Orifice.
nbsp a. Do not apply Teflon tape or joint compound to the first two threads.
3. Tighten the Orifice into the hole on the manifold using a wrench.
nbsp a. The orifice should be as tight as you can get it to ensure no gas leaks.
4. Apply Teflon tape or pipe joint compound to the threaded end of the manifold, again skipping the first two threads.
5. Tighten the mainfold into the gas valve.
a. If using a table vise or open ended wrench to hold the gas valve, do not over tighten as you may damage the gas valve.
b. The manifold should be as tight as you can get it to ensure no gas leaks.
c. If using liquid propane, open the conversion kit provided in the Gas Valve box and follow the next 3 steps to change settings on the Gas Valve.
i. Remove the regulator cover screw from the top of the Gas Valve
ii. Insert the spring into the center hole in the plastic regulator adjustment screw, then insert the blocking pin into the center of the spring.
iii. Replace the regulator cover screw and place "L.P" label on the Gas Valve and the warning label.
6. Attach the manifold and gas valve to the rear of the smokehouse using four 3/8-16 Hex Head Bolts, 2 1/4" long, with four nylon lock nuts.
a. Use the four holes centered on the rear of the smokehouse
b. The bolts should be inserted from the inside pointing out toward the rear.
c. You may have to use a screw driver to clear the insulation out of the holes for the bolts.
7. Insert the 1/4" tubing into the pilot orifice on the pilot bracket and tighten the compression nut.
a. Make sure you are using the correct pilot orifice. The pilot hood comes set up for Natural Gas; if you are using LP, remove the pilot orifice and replace with the LP pilot orifice supplied with the pilot kit, then put the compression nut onto the LP pilot orifice and continue assembly.
b. Make sure it is tight enough so the 1/4" tubing does not fall out.
8. Attach the pilot bracket to the gas burner.
a. For best results, only use one screw, attached through the top hole on the burner bracket and the bottom hole on the pilot bracket.
b. Try to have the pilot hood point towards the gas outlet on the burner as much as possible.
c. Bend the tubing around the burner then straight back toward rear of the burner.
i. Avoid sharp bends in the tubing and the thermocouple.
9. Thread the thermocouple holder up through the bottom of the pilot bracket assembly and tighten.
10. Put the holding clips on the rod shaped end of the thermocouple, then insert it up through the bottom of the thermocouple holder.
a. Do not be afraid to use force to get the rod shaped end of the thermocouple all the way up through the thermocouple holder so that it is level with pilot hood, use pliers if necessary.
b. It is very important that the thermocouple sits in the pilot flame, so you must make sure the thermocouple is as high as you can get it.
11. Attach the mounting bracket to the front of the gas burner by bending the tab on the bottom of the burner.
12. Feed the 1/4" tubing, thermocouple wire and the end of the gas burner through the 3" hole in rear of the smokehouse.
a. Make sure the orifice is inserted through the hole in rear of the gas burner.
b. Make sure the 1/4" tubing is not up against the side of the 3" hole. Vibrations may eventually cause the sheet metal to cut the tubing.
13. Secure the mounting bracket to the base of the smokehouse using four sheet metal screws (Tap point screws 7 x 1/2)
a. Make sure the rear of the gas burner is as far back against the manifold as possible prior to securing the mounting bracket.
b. Putting in the screws will be much easier if you drill pilot holes first.
14. Insert the 1/4" tubing into the compression fitting on the side of the gas valve and tighten the compression fitting.
a. Make sure it is tight enough so that you cannot pull out the 1/4" tubing.
15. Thread the nut on the end of the thermocouple into the fitting on the top of the valve and tighten the nut.
16. If you are not using an Emergency Cut Off (ECO) Device, jumper the ECO terminals on the Gas Valve with a small wire.
a. It is recommended that you use 16-14 gauge female push-on insulated vinyl connectors at both ends of the short wire to connect to the ECO terminals.
17. Cut the Orange and Red wires off the Transformer on the side where there are 4 wires coming out (110V side), then cap off these wires individually.
18. If using ring or fork terminals, make sure they are tightly secured to the remaining four wires.
a. There should be 14-16 ring/fork terminals
b. Remaining wires should be black and white on the 110V side and red and green on the 24V side.
19. Attach the Transformer to the rear of the smokehouse using tap point screws 7 x 1/2.
a. The top right corner should be 14 1/2" up from bottom and 5" from right side.
b. For best results, mark holes and drill pilot holes prior to securing with self-tapping screws.
20. Attach the green wire from the transformer to the "TR" port on the Gas Valve and the Red wire from the transformer to the "TH" port on the Gas Valve.
a. Leave the "TH-TR" slot empty.
21. If using an electrical box (double gang metal box with 1/2" knockouts) and a terminal block, bevel two holes in the back of the electric box.
a. This step can be skipped if the electrical box was purchased from The Sausage Maker.
b. These bevels should be deep enough so that the head of the screw (8-32 x 5/8 flat head) is flush with the rear of the electric box.
22. Attach the terminal block with two 8-32 x 5/8 flat head screws through the two holes you just beveled.
23. Attach the small electric box (double gang metal electric box with 1/2" knockouts) to the left hand side of the smokehouse, the top should be 14" up from the bottom of the smokehouse and the side of the electric box should be flush with the rear of the smokehouse.
a. It is recommended that you mark the holes in the four corners and drill pilot holes prior to attaching with self-tapping screws (Tap point screws 7 x 1/2).
b. Leave one screw off for attaching the ground wire in a later step.
24. Attach the power cord to the bottom of the electric box using a 3/8 combination connector for 1/2" conduit knockout hole.
25. Attach wires from the power cord to respective positions:
a. The Ground (green) should go on the last screw securing the Electric box to the smokehouse.
b. The Black wire should be attached to the bottom position on the terminal block.
c. The White wire should be attached to the top position on the terminal block.
i. If you are using 14-16 ring terminals, make sure they are tightly connected.
26. Use a rubber grommet on a hole on the side of the electric box (rear side of smokehouse) and then bring the black and white wires from the transformer into the electric box.
27. Attach the Control box to the same side of the smokehouse as the electric box. It should be 9 1/2" down from the top of the smokehouse and 1 1/2" back from the front.
a. It is recommended that you mark the holes and then drill pilot holes prior to securing with self-tapping screws (Tap point screws 7 x 1/2).
28. Cut a black, a white and a red wire as well as 3/8 flexible conduit long enough to go up from Electric Box, make a right angle and go over to the bottom of the Control box.
a. The three wires should be 14 gauge
b. Leave the three wires long enough to work with in both boxes.
c. The wires and conduit should be approximately 55-60".
29. Attach the black wires to the terminal block opposite the black wire from the power cord.
30. Attach both the white wire from the transformer and the white wire just cut to the terminal block opposite the white wire from the power cord.
a. You need to put an extension on the end of the white wire from the transformer.
31. Extend the black wire from the transformer with the red wire previously cut.
32. Run all three long wires through the conduit into the control box, then secure the conduit to both boxes using a 3/8 combination connector for 1/2" knockout to connect to the electric box and a 3/8 flexible metal 90° conduit connector for the control box.
33. Install the 2 1/2" Dial Thermometer on the front of the control box using three 8-32 x 3/8 pan head screws and 3 nuts.
34. Install the pilot light by inserting it through the hole located under the dial thermomenter.
35. Connect wires to back of control sensor using 16-14 gauge female push-on insulated vinyl connectors.
a. Position "1" the white wire from sensor provided with the control
b. Position "2" the red wire from sensor provided with the control
c. Position "3" empty
d. Position "4" black wire from terminal block and short black wire from "6"
e. Position "5" white wire from terminal block and one end of pilot light
f. Position "6" short black wire connected to "4" at the other end
g. Position "7" red wire from conduit (black wire from transformer) and other black wire from pilot light
36. Attach the Paktronics control sensor to the control box with the nut provided.
a. You must remove the knob, sticker and nut, then insert through the proper hole under the pilot light and 2 1/2" Dial Thermometer and tighten with the nut.
b. Cut the sticker so that it fits onto the control box, then place in the appropriate spot over the control on the control box.
c. Attach the knob so that the white line points to the starting position, then tighten the screw on the knob.
37. Run the sensors from the thermometer and control through the hole in the rear of the control box then through a rubber grommet, then secure the grommet to the control box.
38. Run both sensors through another grommet then through hole on the side of the smokehouse. Then secure the grommet to the hole.
a. Hole may be tight, each sensor will have to be pushed through individually. You will have to insert the larger sensor first.
39. Now that the sensors are inside the smokehouse, push them through heat shrink tubing and attach them to the rear wall of the smokehouse.
a. You will want them centered in the smokehouse and approximately 2/3 of the way up from the bottom.
b. If you did not purchase the bracket from The Sausage Maker, you can use washers to move sensors off the wall and secure them with metal strapping.
40. Bend the ends of the cover plate for the sensor wires, then secure it to the side of the smokehouse using self-tapping screws.
If you did not purchase the cover plate from The Sausage Maker, you can use conduit.
41. Secure conduit to the side of the smokehouse.
a. You can use either 1/2 conduit brackets or 3/8 flexible conduit brackets.
42. Remove the two screws from the round plate inside the damper to take it apart.
43. Insert the chimney through the hole at top of the smokehouse from the inside so the weld faces the rear.
a. Mark the holes then drill pilot holes and secure with self-tapping screws (Tap point screws 7 x 1/2) or rivets.
44. Reassemble the damper arm and round plate and secure with two screws.
45. Line up the damper bracket on the damper arm so it's flush with the side of the smokehouse.
a. Mark holes, drill pilot holes and then secure with self-tapping screws (Tap point screws 7 x 1/2).
46. Tighten the screw at the top on the damper arm stand so it can say closed, however, not too tight so it can't be moved.
47. Cut the insulation out of the hole for the smoke generator hookup.
48. Using a 3" hole saw, drill a hole in the center of the smoke generator hookup from the inside.
a. Should be centered at 13" from front and 16" up from bottom of the smokehouse
b. Only drill the leader hole, do not cut the 3" hole.
49. Using that hole as a guide, cut the 3" hole in the side of the smokehouse for the smoke generator from the outside.
50. Line up the smoke generator inlet in the 3" hole so that the weld is facing down, mark and drill pilot holes then secure with self-tapping screws or rivets.
a. If you did not purchase the smoke generator inlet from The Sausage Maker, you can use Galvanized 3" flue or duct piping
51. Attach the smoke generator by inserting the tubing on the side of the smoke generator into the smoke generator inlet.
52. Remove only the wing nuts and lock washers from the blower plate assembly.
a. The two remaining nuts should be on the top right and lower left when you are facing the blower hole.
53. Line up the two remaining nuts and two bolts with the holes on the side of the smoke generator and reattach the wing nuts and lock washers.
54. Cover the burner assembly in the bottom of the smokehouse with the burner hood so that the drippings from the product being smoked fall towards the front of the smokehouse.
a. The burner hood should be 1" from the rear of the smokehouse
b. Mark holes, then drill pilot holes and secure with self-tapping screws (Tap point screws 7 x 1/2)
55. Seal all of the edges of any parts installed in this assembly inside the smokehouse
a. Use silicone sealant that is approved for food service equipment
b. Wipe away any excess sealant to ensure a smooth surface.
56. Put the cover plates on the control panel and electric box.
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1. Pilot will not stay lit:
a. Check to make sure the ECO is properly connected. See Step 16.
b. Check to make sure the thermocouple is being heated by the pilot flame. There should be burn marks at the end of the thermocouple if it is in the flame. See Step 10.
c. Make sure there is not an excessive draft that could blow out the pilot flame.
2. Unsatisfactory pilot flame:
a. Small Blue Flame
i. Check to see if gas pressure supply is too low
ii. Make sure the 1/4" tubing is not kinked
iii. Check for obstruction in pilot orifice (two small holes located under the pilot hood)
iv. Check for obstruction in pilot assembly
v. Check to make sure the end of the thermocouple is in the flame
b. Lifting Yellow Flame
i. Check for dirt or other foreign material on the pilot orifice
ii. Check to make sure the end of the thermocouple is in the flame
c. Moving Blue Flame
i. Check for draft in pilot area
ii. Make sure there is enough air ventilation
d. Noisy Blowing Flame
i. Check for high gas pressure
e. Sharp Flame
i. Check for high gas pressure
ii. Check for obstructions in the pilot orifice
3. Burner does not light:
a. Check for obstructed orifice
b. Check to make sure gas pressure is high enough
c. Make sure control wiring is correct
4. After smokehouse cycle ends it does not turn back on:
a. Make sure pilot light is still on
b. Make sure there is still power and gas flow going into the smokehouse
c. Check to make sure that there is enough air ventilation
d. Check for obstruction in pilot orifice and burner outlets
e. Check for obstruction in orifice from gas valve
5. Incorrect temperature reading:
a. Move the placement of the sensor
b. Check position of controller knob
6. Rapid, frequent burner cycles:
a. Move the placement of the sensor
b. Check to make sure it is wired correctly.
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